Silver Hallmarks Chart: Identify Sterling, Plate and Maker Marks

Silver is one of the most rewarding categories for thrift store resellers, and one of the most misunderstood. A piece marked "silverplate" from Oneida might be worth $8. A piece marked with a British lion passant from a Georgian-era maker might sell for $800. The difference comes down to one thing: knowing how to read silver hallmarks.

This guide covers how to identify sterling silver, silver plate, and antique silver marks at the source. It works at a Goodwill, estate sale, or flea market with 30 seconds to make a decision.

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Silver hallmarks are the small stamped marks that reveal a piece's metal, maker, country, and often its date. The most important is the standard mark. "925," "Sterling," or a British lion passant means solid sterling silver. "EPNS," "silverplate," or "plated" means a thin silver coating worth far less. To identify a mark fast, photograph it with Underpriced AI to read the hallmark and pull real sold prices, or match it by hand against the country tables below.

Flipping silver rather than just reading a hallmark? If you are working an estate sale or a case of flatware, pricing each piece by hand is the slow part. Snap a photo of any silver piece and Underpriced AI reads the hallmark and maker. It then returns the real sold-comp price in seconds. You will know what a piece is worth before you pay for it, and what to list it for after. Try Underpriced AI on web or mobile. Your first scan is free.

What Are Silver Hallmarks

Related: the best antique appraisal apps, compared side by side.

Silver hallmarks are small stamps, marks, or symbols pressed into metal to certify its purity, origin, and maker. They've been used since the 14th century. European governments began requiring silversmiths to prove their metal was genuine before selling it to the public.

Hallmarks are a pre-industrial quality control system. For resellers, they function as a cheat sheet to provenance and value.

Modern hallmarks typically include some combination of:

• Purity mark, which indicates the silver content (e.g., "925," "800," "Sterling")
• Maker's mark, the silversmith or manufacturer's identifying stamp
• Assay office mark, the government office that tested the piece
• Date letter, a letter (sometimes in a shaped cartouche) indicating the year of manufacture
• Duty mark, used historically to indicate tax was paid (mainly British)

Not every piece has all five. American silver, for example, rarely includes date letters. British silver is one of the most fully documented hallmark systems in the world. Understanding which system you're looking at is step one.

Always carry a jeweler's loupe (10x magnification). Hallmarks are tiny, often worn, and sometimes hidden. Check the underside of a spoon bowl, inside a ring, or on the back of a clasp. Tools like Underpriced AI let you scan items with your phone camera to instantly surface resale pricing. That helps when you're unsure if a mark you've found justifies the price tag.

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Sterling vs. Silver Plate: The Most Important Distinction

Before you look at any other mark, answer one question: is this solid silver or silver plate?

This single distinction separates a $12 thrift store find from a $150 one.

Solid Sterling Silver

Sterling silver is 92.5% pure silver, alloyed with copper or other metals for durability. In the U.S., anything stamped "Sterling" or "925" is legally required to meet this standard.

Solid sterling has intrinsic melt value on top of its collectible value. As of 2024-2025, silver spot prices have ranged between $24-$32 per troy ounce. So even a plain piece of heavy sterling flatware has a floor value based on weight alone.

Silver Plate

Silver-plated items have a thin layer of silver electroplated over a base metal (usually copper, brass, or nickel silver). They contain very little actual silver by weight and have essentially no melt value.

Common silver plate markings to recognize:

• EPNS, Electroplated Nickel Silver
• EPBM, Electroplated Britannia Metal
• A1, AA, TRIPLE, quality grades used by plating companies
• Sheffield Plate, older fusion-bonded silver on copper (pre-1840, actually valuable)
• Silver on Copper or Silver on Brass
• 1847 Rogers Bros, a brand, not a date; this is silverplate

What about pieces marked just "Silver"? In the U.S., this is not a guaranteed purity mark. Always look for "925" or "Sterling" alongside it. International pieces marked "Silver" vary by country.

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Country-Specific Hallmark Systems

Silver marking laws differ by country. Here's what you'll encounter most often at U.S. estate sales and thrift stores.

United Kingdom

The British hallmarking system is the oldest and most detailed in the world, dating to 1300.

• Lion Passant, the iconic walking lion stamp; indicates English sterling (92.5% pure)
• Assay Office Marks: Anchor (Birmingham), Crown (Sheffield), Leopard's Head (London), Castle (Edinburgh for Scotland)
• Date Letters, where each assay office used a different alphabet cycle, so the same letter means different years in different cities
• Britannia Mark, a seated Britannia figure indicating 95.84% purity, used 1697-1720 and occasionally after

United States

American silver is comparatively simple. No mandatory government hallmarking system exists, so makers self-marked their work.

• Sterling, the standard mark since the late 1800s
• 925, the modern equivalent, increasingly common
• Coin, which indicates 90% silver (pre-Civil War era, very collectible)
• No mark, which doesn't mean it's not silver; some early American pieces were never marked

Germany

• 800, the most common German silver purity mark (80% silver)
• 830, used in Scandinavia and some German pieces
• Crescent and Crown, the standard German assay mark accompanying 800 silver

France

• Eagle Head, 950 silver (Minerva mark for imported pieces)
• Owl, an import mark
• Rooster, another control mark

Mexico

• 925 or Sterling on modern pieces
• Eagle followed by a number, which indicates the assay office (e.g., Eagle 3 = Taxco region)
• Heavily collected; Taxco silver is particularly popular with collectors

Scandinavia

• 830S or 925S, purity marks
• Three crowns (Sweden), town marks, and maker initials are common
• Norwegian silver with Viking motifs commands collector premiums

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Common Sterling Marks: 925, Lion Passant, Date Letters

The 925 Mark

The most universally recognized sterling silver mark today. If you see "925" stamped on a piece, it's sterling. This mark is used globally and has been standard in the U.S. since the late 20th century. You'll find it on everything from modern jewelry to heavy serving pieces.

Watch for "925" stamped on pieces that are actually silver-plated or even base metal. Counterfeit 925 marks exist, particularly on jewelry imported from certain markets. If a "925" piece has no weight and looks overly shiny with wear showing through at edges, be suspicious.

The Lion Passant

Found on English sterling silver, this walking lion is one of the most iconic symbols in the antiques world. You'll typically see it alongside the maker's mark and assay office mark. Presence of the lion passant alone is strong evidence of genuine sterling.

The lion should be clear and detailed: four legs, tail upright, facing left. Worn or smudged versions can look ambiguous. Compare against reference images on your phone.

Date Letters

British date letters tell you the exact year a piece was made, invaluable for dating antiques. Each assay office used a different style of letter and cartouche shape (the border around the letter).

For example, a piece with an anchor (Birmingham) and a Gothic "D" in a square cartouche might date to 1858. The same "D" in a different cartouche at London would be a different year entirely.

Websites like 925-1000.com and Antique Cupboard's hallmark database let you look up combinations on the spot. Bookmark these on your phone before hitting estate sales.

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Famous Silver Makers: What Adds Collector Value

Purity marks tell you what a piece is made of. Maker's marks tell you what it's worth beyond melt value. These are the names that move prices significantly upward.

Georg Jensen

Danish silversmith Georg Jensen (1866-1935) is one of the most collected names in silver worldwide. His Art Nouveau and early modernist designs command serious premiums.

Look for "GEORG JENSEN" in a dotted oval, often with "925S" or "Sterling Denmark." Post-1945 pieces may say "Georg Jensen Inc." for American imports.

Georg Jensen sterling brooches regularly sell $200-$800. A Jensen "Blossom" brooch in fine condition can exceed $1,500. Hollowware (pitchers, bowls) from Jensen can run $2,000-$10,000+ at auction.

Tiffany & Co.

Tiffany has made sterling silver since the 1850s. Their early pieces are heavily collected. Modern Tiffany silver still commands retail premiums secondhand.

Look for "TIFFANY & CO." with "STERLING" or "925." Older pieces may include "MAKERS" and a pattern number. Some pieces carry a letter-number date code.

A Tiffany sterling flatware place setting (5 pieces) in Chrysanthemum pattern sold for $650 on eBay. Small Tiffany trinket dishes run $80-$250. Tiffany hollowware starts around $300 and climbs fast.

Gorham

One of the largest American silver manufacturers, Gorham (founded 1831, Providence RI) made both sterling and silverplate. Their Martele line (hand-hammered, 9584/1000 purity) is museum quality.

Gorham lion + anchor + Gothic G = sterling. This combination is their primary quality mark. Silverplate pieces use "Gorham" without the lion/anchor/G combo.

Gorham sterling flatware sets sell $15-$40 per piece depending on pattern. Gorham Chantilly pattern remains one of the best-selling sterling flatware patterns. A 60-piece set recently sold for $1,800.

Towle, Reed & Barton, International Silver

Other major American makers. All made both sterling and plate lines, so mark identification is critical. Reed & Barton's "Francis I" sterling pattern is particularly valuable.

Navajo and Native American Silver

Pieces made by Navajo, Zuni, and Hopi silversmiths carry enormous collector demand. Look for stamps like "STERLING," "NAVAJO," artist hallmarks (registered symbols), and sometimes tribal affiliation stamps.

A Navajo sterling cuff with turquoise can sell $150-$600 depending on artist recognition, stone quality, and weight.

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What Silver Is Actually Worth: Real Sold Prices

Here's the data that matters at the thrift store. These are approximate sold prices pulled from recent eBay completed listings.

The spread between silverplate and sterling on similar-looking pieces can be 10x to 50x. Knowing your marks isn't academic. It's the difference between passing on a $200 find or overpaying for a $15 piece.

For resellers building out a consistent sourcing strategy around categories like this, the Best Thrift Store Finds to Sell on eBay in 2026 guide covers silver alongside other high-return categories worth adding to your sourcing checklist.

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Spotting Fakes and Problem Pieces

Fake 925 Stamps

The most common fraud is base metal jewelry stamped "925" or "Sterling." Signs of a fake:

• Unusual weight. Sterling is heavy; if a large ring feels light, be suspicious.
• Tarnish through plating. Genuine sterling tarnishes uniformly; fakes show base metal color at wear points.
• Magnet test. Silver is not magnetic; if a piece sticks to a magnet, it's base metal (though this doesn't confirm silver either).
• Acid test. A silver testing kit (under $15) applies nitric acid to a small scratch; genuine sterling turns a specific shade. Use this for any high-stakes purchase.

Reproductions of Famous Maker Pieces

Jensen, Tiffany, and Navajo pieces are frequently reproduced. Red flags:

• Stamps that look slightly off (wrong font, wrong spacing)
• "Georg Jensen" without the country of origin on pieces that should have it
• "Tiffany" without "& Co." on older-style pieces
• Navajo-style pieces with no hallmark or a generic "Sterling" only

British Mark Forgeries

Historical British silver is sometimes forged with fake hallmarks. Suppose a piece claims to be 18th-century English silver, but the marks look unusually crisp and the piece shows little wear. Get a second opinion from a silver dealer before purchasing at a high price.

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Building Silver ID Skills as a Reseller

Reading silver marks gets faster with repetition. Here's a practical skill-building approach:

1. Start with American sterling. "925" and "Sterling" are easy to spot and widely available.
2. Learn the Gorham lion/anchor/G mark cold. It appears constantly at estate sales.
3. Download a British hallmark reference. Bookmark 925-1000.com.
4. Buy a loupe and carry it always. Marks are small; squinting doesn't work.
5. Use sold listings to calibrate value. Before buying, check what similar marked pieces actually sold for, not just asking prices.

Tools like Underpriced AI speed this up. You scan a piece and surface comparable sold listings instantly, which helps you make faster, data-driven calls at the source.

To source silver and other high-value antiques at estate sales, the Top Profitable Estate Sale Finds to Flip on eBay: 2026 Sourcing Guide is worth reading before your next sale. Once you've identified your pieces, check the eBay Pricing Strategy for Resellers guide to list at prices that actually sell.

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Silver hallmarks reward the resellers who take the time to learn them. A 10-minute investment in understanding what a lion passant means, or how to distinguish a Gorham sterling mark from its silverplate equivalent, can add hundreds of dollars to your sourcing ROI over the course of a year. The marks are small, but the payoff isn't.

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Snap a photo of any silver piece and Underpriced AI names it. You get genuine sold comps drawn from eBay, Poshmark, Mercari and category specialists. The tool then builds your listing and posts it directly to eBay across 10 markets. Refresh value keeps pricing up to date. Try your first scan free, no card required.

Frequently Asked Questions

How do I identify silver hallmarks?

Look for small stamped marks on the underside, rim, or clasp, and read them in order: the standard mark (925, Sterling, or a lion passant for sterling), a maker's mark (initials in a shield), and often a country or date symbol. Match them against the tables in this guide, or photograph the mark with Underpriced AI to identify it and see real sold prices.

What does 925 mean on silver?

925 means the piece is 92.5% pure silver, the standard for solid sterling. "Sterling" and the British lion passant mean the same thing. Marks like EPNS, silverplate, or plated mean a thin silver layer over base metal, which is worth far less.

How can I tell real silver from silver plate?

The mark is the fastest tell: 925, Sterling, or a lion passant is solid silver; EPNS or silverplate is coated. Solid silver is also non-magnetic and shows even wear, while plate tends to wear through to a coppery tone at the edges.

Are old silver hallmarks worth money?

Sometimes a lot. A common silverplate piece might sell for under $10, while a signed sterling piece from a sought-after maker or era can bring hundreds. Maker, country, age, weight, and condition all drive the value, which is why reading the full set of marks matters.

Try Underpriced AI on web or mobile to identify a hallmark from a photo and see what similar pieces have sold for.